DATA

ABOUT THE BRAND

Stella McCartney is a luxury fashion brand, priding itself as a vegetarian company committed to operating a responsible and modern business, committing to maintaining a supply chain that respects the planet as well as the people and animals on it.

HIGHLIGHTS

THE PROS:

Stella McCartney states it is committed to becoming a zero deforestation company. All of the brands paper, packaging, wood used in its products, wood flooring, and viscose is sourced from certified sustainable sources.

The brand has completed an annual Environmental Profit and Loss (EP&L) report since 2013, publishing it publicly for the first time in 2015. The EP&L measures and monetizes the negative and positive impacts on the environment generated by the brands entire operations and supply chain.

About 70% of the production of Stella McCartney bags and shoes are executed solely by hand by skilled artisans. Its bags, for example, can only be produced by a handful of factories in Italy that specialise in non-leather production.

THE CONS:

The brand does not communicate the social impact of its supply chain, and we don’t have any information on how the brand monitors the labour practices in its supply chain against the ETI Base Code.

The brand does not have a product take back recycling program.

/ The brands collections include women’s ready-to-wear, menswear, accessories, lingerie, eyewear, fragrance and kids.

/ Stella McCartney launched a long term partnership with Adidas to design high performance sportswear for the brand in September 2004.

/ The brand reports its primary licensing partners are Adidas for sportswear, Bendon for Lingerie, Coty for fragrances and Kering Eyewear.

/ Kering’s Annual Report states the Stella McCartney brand experienced a year of very robust growth in 2016. The report does not break down sales revenue for the brand.

/ In November 2016, Fashionista reported that Stella McCartney employs over 600 people and is the fastest-growing brand in the Kering portfolio.

In March 2015, Business of Fashion reported that Stella McCartney’s commitment to operating sustainably can cost the brand more. It quotes Stella McCartney saying, “It can cost up to 70 percent more. We absorb that in our margin. We don’t price the products up. It is a matter of the construction and it’s more time consuming.”

/ The brand states it manufactures all of its ready-to-wear, shoes and bags in Europe; Italy is its largest sourcing country, both for materials and manufacturing.

/ Stella McCartney has completed an annual Environmental Profit and Loss (EP&L) report since 2013, publishing it publicly for the first time in 2015. The EP&L measures and monetizes the negative and positive impacts on the environment generated by the brands entire operations and supply chain. The brands EP&L looks at six major categories of environmental impact (greenhouse gas emissions, air pollution, water pollution, water consumption, waste disposal, and changes in ecosystem services associated with land use change) across all of its business and supply chain, from the production of raw materials through to its own operations and sale of products to the customer.

/ The brands 2015 report shows an overall environmental impact reduction of 35% against the previous three years. The results show that the most highly concentrated area of environmental impact for the company is at the supply chain (90%), with the highest concentration of impact at the raw material stage (57%). The brands own direct operations represent only 10% of its impact.

/ Stella McCartney has been working with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition since 2012.

/ The brand maintains an entirely European supply chain for its viscose. The pulp is sourced from a sustainably managed and certified forest in Sweden, confirmed through a Canopy Style Audit. As of Spring 2017 all of its ready-to-wear viscose comes from sustainably managed and certified forests.

/ Stella McCartney is a member of the Ethical Trading Initiative, which means it has adopted the ETI Base Code in full. Corporate members must also sign up to ETI’s Principles of Implementation, which set out the approaches to ethical trade that member companies should follow. These require companies to report openly and accurately about their activities annually to the ETI.

/ The ETI Base Code includes provisions for the following:

  • Wages and benefits paid for a standard working week meet, at a minimum, national legal standards or industry benchmark standards, whichever is higher. In any event wages should always be enough to meet basic needs and to provide some discretionary income
  • Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected

/ Adidas by Stella McCartney follows the same code of ethics as all Stella McCartney collections, as part of the adidas Better Place Program.

/ The brand states that about 70% the production of both its bags and shoes are executed solely by hand by skilled artisans. Its bags, for example, can only be produced by a handful of factories in Italy that specialise in non-leather production.

/ The brand has partnered with the United Nation’s International Trade Center Ethical Fashion Initiative, to produce bags in Kenya.

/ Stella McCartney has signed the Responsible Sourcing Networks Cotton Pledge, to not knowingly source cotton from Uzbekistan.

/ Stella McCartney does not use any leather, skins, feathers or fur in any of its products, collaborations or licensed products. No fish glue, or any other glues derived from animal parts, are used in the production of the brands shoes and bags.

/ The brands ‘vegetarian leather’ is PVC free. The brand uses waterborne polyurethane (PU) instead of the traditional solvent-based PU, which offers significant reductions the consumption of water and energy.

/ The brand states it use recycled materials whenever possible, and all its handbags are lined with polyester that comes from recycled plastic water bottles.

/ The brand states it sources organic cotton wherever possible and that in 2014, 72% of its denim collection, 54% of its cotton jersey and 74% of its kidswear collection was made from organic cotton.

/ Since 2016 the brand has ceased using virgin cashmere in its collection and now uses regenerated cashmere yarn called Re.Verso™ made from post-factory waste in Italy. The brand states this yarn has a 92% reduction in environmental impact when compared to virgin cashmere.

/ In 2014, Stella McCartney introduced Bio TPU rubber used for shoe soles made from 49% renewable resources.

/ The brand reports that its Spring Summer 2014 collection for adidas was created with zero waste, stating that 95% of fabric is used during pattern cutting and the other 5% is recycled or repurposed.

/ Stella McCartney garments feature the Clevercare logo as a reminder to customers to consider the environment when washing and caring for their garments. The brand joined the initiative to highlight the importance of customer care stating “clothes last longer if you wash them less and care for them more, and less washing saves water and energy”.

/ All Stella McCartney stores and offices in the UK are powered by wind energy through Ecotricity, a company that invests in clean forms of power. Outside the UK the brand reports it uses renewable energy to power its stores and offices wherever it is available.

/ The brand states that it considers its impact on the planet as it designs clothing, opens stores and manufactures its products.

/ The brand states that it is working to reduce the impact of its alternative materials by using recycled and bio-based materials. Stella McCartney uses the EP&L tool to measure its impact, which has shown that the majority of the impacts associated with synthetic fibres are from the processing of oil into yarn.

/ Stella McCartney states it is committed to becoming a zero deforestation company.

/ In 2014 the brand partnered with NGO Canopy and made a commitment to ensure that all of its cellulose fabrics (viscose) meet strict sustainability standards by 2017. The brand has achieved this goal from Spring 2017.

/ Stella McCartney, in partnership with Fashion Positive, is working to create a Cradle to Cradle Gold Certified material which will be added to the Fashion Positive Materials Collection, which will be available publically, upon completion.

/ Stella McCartney partners with Canopy to advance solutions that protect key conservation areas such as the Leuser Ecosystem, in Sumatra, Indonesia northern Boreal Forests and the Rainforests of Canada. The brand works to ensure that its suppliers acknowledge traditional and indigenous communities’ rights to give or withhold their Free, Prior and Informed Consent before logging takes place.

/ The brand partners with the Sustainable Fibre Alliance and the Wildlife Conservation Society to support on-the-ground work in Mongolia to begin reversing the desertification that has taken place.

/ Stella McCartney partners with Wildlife Works and their commitment to empowering women through job creation, small enterprise development, healthcare and education.

/ The brand reports it supports the following charities; WWF, Animals Asia, ASPCA, Battersea Dogs & Cats Home, Bioplanet USA, Childrens Action Network, Comic Relief UK, DKMS, Good+ Foundation, H.E.A.R.T, Hello Beautiful, Hopefield ANimal Sanctuary, Kering Corporate Foundation, The Linda McCartney Centre, Meat Free Monday, Naked Heart Foundation, NBCF Australia, National Breast Cancer Foundation US, NSPCC, Oceana, PS Arts, PETA, (RED), SOS Children’s Villages, War Child, the White Ribbon Campaign, and The Women’s Cancer Research Fund.

/ We don’t have any information on how much the brands CEO, Frederick Lukoff made in the last financial year.

/ Stella McCartney, the Creative Director of the brand, is also on the Board of Directors of the Kering Foundation.

/ Stella McCartney is a brand partner of The Kering Award for Sustainable Fashion, developed by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion and part of a five-year partnership to support sustainable design and viable innovation in the fashion industry.

/ In 2014, Stella McCartney launched the Stella McCartney Green Carpet Collection at the Royal Institution of Great Britain, becoming the first designer to create an entire capsule collection certified to the Green Carpet Challenge® (GCC) Brandmark.

/ There are no reported management scandals or issues.

/ Stella McCartney reports it is exploring the development of the next generation of sustainable fabrics made from recycled materials and agricultural residues.

/ Stella McCartney has been an advisor of the Clean by Design program since 2009 and in 2013 became the first luxury brand to implement Clean by Design at its textile mills. Clean By Design is an innovative program that leverages the buying power of multinational apparel brands to clean up fabric mills, offering simple ways to reduce pollution and cut water, chemical, and energy use while saving money.

/ In March 2017, EcoTextile News announced that Stella McCartney and Adidas have partnered with Parley for the Ocean to create a trainer which features an upper made from plastic recovered from the sea.

/ In March 2015, Business of Fashion reported that Stella McCartney collaborated with H&M on the launch of its CleverCare labelling system, educating consumers on how to take care of their clothes with less washing.

/ All Stella McCartney stores and offices in the UK are powered by wind energy.

VOICES

BRETT MATHEWS | ECOTEXTILE NEWS

Cyrill Gutsch, founder of Parley for The Oceans: “Stella McCartney is a pioneer, a rebel really. Her vision to create fashion without using leather, without using fur was radical when she started and is proven now. She has always been a role model for me. To partner with her is an honor and a huge opportunity for the Ocean Plastic movement.” – 03/20/2017


Refinery_29ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV | REFINERY 29

“Stella McCartney is one of those (rare) designers that explicitly telegraphs her values, season after season. She’s championed animal cruelty-free design (see: “skin-free skin”) and also criticized designers still using fur, and she’s called out fashion industry’s sustainability shortcomings. When some labels get vocal about environmental concerns related to fashion manufacturing practices just once a year, when, say, Earth Day rolls around, it comes off as sort of disingenuous. Not so with McCartney’s line, though, since she’s addressing these matters on a regular basis.” – 04/10/2017


RackedBETSY ANDREWS | RACKED

Stella McCartney publicly committed to dropping rayon producers that pulp ancient forests in 2014. The company agreed to use its considerable clout toward conservation efforts and to push its suppliers to find alternatives to forested materials.” – 03/16/2017

STELLA MCCARTNEY | ECOTEXTILE NEWS

“I strongly believe in making clothing that is ethically created and built to last, and this is an ideology I channel into every single piece I design. For me, preserving and respecting the planet is fundamental to what I do and I always try to make an effort to consider that in my designs. I’m really impressed by the work adidas and Parley for the Oceans do to create the materials used in our high-performance apparel and footwear.” – 03/20/2017

STELLA MCCARTNEY | FORBES

We’ve forgotten we make the choices. When you’re consuming, ask questions… With fashion, look at the product and its price point. Look at its environment too – see if there are 700 others on the rail, or three on the rail. Look at how it’s made to understand what’s in it. Think of it like a recipe list, as you do with food.” – 11/20/2016

STELLA MCCARTNEY | VOGUE

“I don’t want to preach. I don’t want to be that person. But I’m a firm believer that doing something small is better than doing nothing.” – 11/15/2016